PLACES TO VISIT AND DISCOVER

When one talks about Brazil, the two cities that click immediately are Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo. Though these cities have for long been spotlight for foreign travelers to Brazil, one should bear in mind that there are other fantastic cities that are yet to be visited and enjoyed all over this huge country.

RIO DE JANEIRO 
 
What can be written about Rio de Janeiro that hasn't been said over and over again? The Brazilians call it "Cidade Maravilhosa" (wonderful city) but I call it a tourist paradise because of its attractive, fanciful and vibrant nature.There is probably no other city in the world that is able to trigger ones imagination the way Rio does. Maybe the fact that Rio succeeds in bridging the gap between two apparent extremes could be the joker behind this claim: (a buzzing city life, packed with twenty- four -seven  entertainment, and an incredible natural surroundings, comprising of endless beaches of vast forests that habituate wild and exotic animals.) Indeed, this wonderful city is blessed with the largest urban forest in the world, the Tijuca National Park;a place where one can walk for hours without running into any human faces.

I may not have traveled all over the world, but I must sincerely confess that, amongst the places and cities I've been privileged to visit, none has been as breathtaking as Rio. Laying one's eyes on Rio for the first time could be mind- blowing. A view of the extended coastline, places the city as an endless wave of rocky ills, forcing its dwellings to sinuously settle on the curves of Mother Nature. 

Without insisting on these clichés, let us say that the natural settings have definitely created a way of life that stands the city out. The overwhelming scenery of nature has turned the Cariocas' to sport addicts. Beach volley, surfing, swimming, cycling, soccer, jogging, rock climbing and hang gliding are some out of a great number of sports that they engage themselves in.

While the famous favelas (shanty towns) - including Rocinha, the biggest favela in South America - hang on the hills and strategically control the major tunnels and roads in the city, Leblon, Ipanema, Botafogo and Flamengo which are opulent neighborhoods settle comfortably in the valleys, just a stone throw to the eponymous beaches. The charming hills of Santa Tereza which accommodated the high and mighty members of Rio's society for decades, are now home to an international crowd of "bo-hos", who are tranquilly mixed with the locals (and sometimes exhibit insecurity with the few surrounding 'favelados'). If Leblon is the Boulevard St Germain of Rio, and Copacabana its Champs-Elysées, Santa Tereza is today Paris' 11th arrondissement!

Even if São Paulo, the business and financial center of Brazil is often considered as the most cosmopolitan city of Brazil, I actually find that Rio has a more international feel which harmoniously blend with the typical elements of brazilianness.

The centre of Rio has suffered - and is still suffering - from the process of emptying of historical city centers. The ‘Corridor Cultural’ project was the first to try to put a stop to this trend. Though, the center remains largely empty at night and on weekends, things are now transforming leaving the center with various signs of re-qualification and regeneration. In less than 15 years, construction works have been concluded at public spaces; over ten cultural centers of reasonable sizes have been constructed; a large quantity of small centers involved in cultural activities (theater, music, dance, plastic arts) including, restaurants, bookstores, places for entertainment and dancing have also been added to this list. Parallel to this, the center is being rediscovered by sophisticated commerce.

Over the past years the city of Rio has suffered a great deal in the hands of the print and electronic media as a very notorious and violent city. If the saying behind every nonsense there is always a sense is anything to go by, an iota of truth could be dug out of this claim. Nevertheless, taking the saying seeing is believing into consideration, I advice that, it will be worth experiencing what this city has to offer, rather than dreadfully staying away and whole-heartedly absorbing what these busy- body journalists always have to say.

São Paulo 
 
São Paulo megalopolis, "Sampa" by its little name - 17 to 20 millions inhabitants (depending on estimates), the 4th largest city in the world, 35% of the GDP of Brazil, home to Italian, Japanese, Lebanese, Portuguese, Korean, Bolivian, and many other immigrants from the entire planet, including millions of "Nordestinos", people from the Northeast of Brazil who came to the country's economic capital in search of a better future.

If you take it from the right angle, São Paulo provides you with one of your most enjoyable stay in Brazil, but you'll need the help of some Paulistanos (inhabitants of São Paulo) to show you the best that the city has to offer. By this, I don't only mean its chic districts of Jardins and Itam Bibi and their fashionable boutiques, the bars and restaurants of Vila Madalena or Bixiga, but also its fascinating downtown, home to one of the most diverse street activity and population one can imagine, its secret and quiet Bolivian neighborhood, the charming hills of Sumaré, the dynamic and creative hip-hop groups of the suburbs whose great social impact deserve a much greater recognition that it currently has.

São Paulo is also... very polluted (buy eye drops as soon as you arrive!), has terrible traffic jams, a high incidence of street crimes, i.e.: definitely stressful! Wealthy Paulistanos (who love their city by the way) have found the solution by commuting every week-end to their beach or country side residences, while the poor continue to dream of a better future, or, more simply, of the beaches of Bahia or Ceará from where their family emigrated one or more generations ago. 

But São Paulo also means an intense cultural life, a great choice of leisure opportunities including an amazing range of restaurants - from the laid-back Italian trattorias to the most sophisticated establishments with stylish design and creative cuisine - for which São Paulo rightly deserves the title of one of the very first gastronomic capital of the world. 

Smoking hot in summer, São Paulo gets cold in winter due to its situation on a high plateau. From late May to late July expect an average temperature of 10-12 ºC (50 ºF) during the day, dropping at night. Only rich mansions and high standards hotels have central heating. Get equipped! 

The city of São Paulo was founded by the Jesuits in 1554. A small town, it stagnated for centuries, until it started to change tremendously at the beginning of the 19th century when the declaration of Brazilian independence (elevating the city to the status of provincial capital) and the foundation of the Faculty of Law which led to the transformation of the quiet city into an intellectual and political center. By the end of the 19th century, the coffee boom (intensively cultivate in São Paulo state), the construction of railroads and the arrival of millions of immigrants from all over the world speedily promoted the growth and extension of the State. Shortly, the city became the financial and business hub that it is today. São Paulo is also host to internationally acknowledged universities and several leading research centers in sciences, technology and medicine as well as concentrating mostly on the intellectual life of Brazil. 

Definitely cosmopolitan, thanks to the successive waves of immigrants who arrived attracted by the appeal of the New World, São Paulo is today considered to be: the largest Japanese city  in the world, the largest Portuguese city outside Portugal, the largest Spanish city outside Spain, the third largest Italian city outside Italy and the third largest Lebanese city outside Lebanon. Can you beat that?

My major highlight on this site is Salvador da Bahia. We would look at a breakdown of places in the state that attract tourism and those that are languishing in poverty. Remember this site is titled "JUST Bahia" and the truth no matter how bitter  is what yours truly honorably stands for.

High season: DEC. 26th through MAR. 15th
Off season: MAR. 16th through Jun. 30th and SEPT. 1st through DEC. 25th
Medium season: JUL. 1st through AUG. 31th

My first point of call , which is unavoidably inescapable when talking about Bahia is the historical center known as Pelourinho.


PELOURINHO

This vicinity that is situated in the upper part of town can be likened to a city within a city. Pelo as it is nicknamed by the inhabitants of Bahia is the touristy part of the city encompassed by colonial buildings, cobblestoned streets and a sense of historical cluster of churches.

Pelourinho which means pillory in English and whipping post in Portuguese, was erroneously believed to be where slaves were being beaten during the Slave trade era which was outlawed in 1835. The truth was that, it used to be home to artistes, musicians and painters who left the most part of the place that was abandoned and unkempt for a considerably  long  time.

 
Due to the historical richness that the area portrays, the government of Bahia, decided to rebuild it in 1994 as a tourist spot; and today it has been registered and considered a world cultural center by UNESCO. This part of town is always jumping with activities especially at night. It is a location to Brazilian music of all genres, especially that with heavy percussion.

 
There are always things to stop and observe when walking pass Pelo. Capoeira displays, shops that sell beautiful artifacts and artworks, restaurants, pastel- hued buildings, museums, bars, music, prostitutes etc. But having stayed in the city for a while, the whole PELO´S affair gets monotonous like seeing the same things and hearing the same drum beats repeatedly couple with the fact that, one is always being harassed by someone wanting to sell you something, or crack heads disturbing passersby for money to eat.

Places normally checked out by tourists when they visit this part of town is the famous Elevador Lacerda which is an elevator that demarcates the lower from the upper city and it is a good spot to catch the sunset. Across the other side of the road from the elevator is the Mercado Modelo, www.portalmercadomodelo.com.br which most people popularly refer to as the ancient slave market. This is where a lot of artifacts and paintings from artists from Bahia are sold, but it was never at any time a slave market. Their is always a beehive of activity going on in this market. As a tourist, immediately you sit in one of the restaurants to have a nice meal and watch a capoeira game, you will be overshadowed by all sorts of beggars asking for a piece of your financial action. This could be really inconveniencing.


Among the 13 churches in Pelo, the favorite that attract tourists are the Igreja Sao Francisco Church ( St Francis church) and the Rosarios dos Pretos (Black Rosary). The former a baroque/rococo church paved with 900kg of gold was used to show off wealth of the rich upper class at the time. Even if the slaves were the ones who built it, they were not allowed to worship in it. The latter was a church built for and by the slaves. Its weekly mass had and still have better songs, rhythm and dance that attract passersby who cannot avoid the power and energy behind the remarkable African beats and sonorous black voices.  The popular Tuesday night festivity which is the biggest party in Pelo called benção ( "blessing"), originated from this church’s custom of giving away bread to the poor on Tuesday evenings when the mass is always held.

 
There are parts of Pelourinho that are not advised to walk alone at night or in the day. These places are homes to petty thieves, small time drug peddlers and crack heads. The road that goes all the way down after the Escola de danca"(Dance school) and the unkempt road that flows down after the Sao Francisco church are no go areas.

Other places to check out, include museums like the

Museu da Arte ( Art Musuem) which portrays a lot of Bahian culture, Museu Afro Brasileiro (The Afro- Brazilian Museum) which exhibit a great deal of slave culture and Museu da Cidade which is known for its great afro Brazilian dish and history. You can register for African dance classes in the dance school and even take capoeira classes.


One show that I mostly recommend to travelers to Salvador in Pelourinho is the Balé Folclórico da Bahia. It presents a spectacular and mind-blowing display of art, dance, capoeira and the Afro-Brazilian religion. It is at the Teatro Miguel Santana in Pelourinho, situated at Rua Gregôrio de Mattos, 49. Performance is at 8.pm Monday through Saturday, with the exception of Tuesdays, which is an exclusively party day. Entry fee is R$25.

For Internet Usage around the pelo area the under listed are advisable

Bahia Café
Largo dos Aflitos, - Mirante dos Aflitos,
Salvador – Bahia
CEP 40060-030
 (71) 3328.1332/0944
Open -9am- 11pm Mon-Sun

Baiáfrica Internet Café
Rua Gregório de Mattos, 32 - Pelourinho ( beside IPAC).
Salvador – Bahia
CEP: 40025-060
 (71) 3321.6910
www.baiafrica.talkspot.com
Open -9am- 11pm Mon-Sun

Internet –Café. Com
 Rua João de Deus, 02 Cep: 40025-080,
(71) 3321-214
Open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m

SOME ADVICE

Salvador is no different from most big cities in the world and crime is a major concern in most neighborhoods. Most robberies are of the grab-and-run and are not physically hazardous.  But things could turn out repulsive and dangerous if one tries to put any kind of resistance.The Historical center, especially the Upper city (Cidade Alta) during daytime, is one of the safest places in Salvador. There are tourist police on almost every corner. But beware that there are parts of Pelourinho that are not advisable to walk alone at night or in the day time. These places are homes to petty thieves, small time drug peddlers and crack heads. The road that goes all the way down after the Escola de danca"(Dance school) and the un-tarred street that flows down after the Sao Francisco church are no go areas. However, precautions are recommended, especially at night. Stick to the main tourist areas and don't walk down streets that appear to be deserted. It's a good idea to stay away from any deserted area, including the beach areas. At night take a taxi (registered vehicles only in white with blue stripe) to wherever you want to go. Avoid taking the buses after 10P.M and on Saturdays or Sundays.The Lower City (Cidade Baixa) www.cidadebaixa.com and the Commercio neighborhoods are notorious for petty crime, and pickpocketing is common on buses and ferries and in crowded places.

Dressing down doesn't make you look old-fashioned and poor; as a matter of safety, it makes you look like simple and native Brazilians and not a target for hoodlums.

Though it looks beautiful and cosy, the hill with the Christ statue just north of the beach of the Farol da Barra must be avoided at night like a plague, and also should walks around and behind the Farol (lighthouse). There have been countless incidents of tourists being robbed in these areas at night.

ALL of the drivers who work at the Terreiro de Jesus, the huge open area at the front of the Pelourinho are dishonest.They will try to rip you off at any slightest opportunity. Avoid taking them and move forward to the front of the Elevador Lacerda before taking a taxi. Or better still, flag down a moving taxi. Don’t forget you can bargain for taxi fare without using the meter.

Never walk on Avenida cotorno on foot either during the day or at night, though it is the spot that has the most beautiful view in Salvador. That is where hoodlums practice their snatch and run tactics on ill-informed tourists.

Dress down, a simple pair of jeans, shorts, and T- shirt with a pair of sneakers or sandal will be just fine.  Never leave your stuff unattended to on the beach, avoid walking around with a backpack firmly planted between your shoulder blades and most importantly avoid exhibiting expensive cameras, camcorders, laptops in internet café and wrist watches, because you never know who is watching. To before warn in to before armed.

My only advice to tourists or travelers about Pelourinho is, though it is has a lot to offer as far as the culture of the people of Bahia is concern, but do not be trapped here for too long. Bahia has a lot of unvisited places that I will unveil to you as you stay glued to this site.

Dique do Tororó (Tororó Dam) - You can see the picture on the homepage of  this  site

Dique do Tororó is one of the most beautiful spot that is used as a postcard to represent the city of Salvador. It was built in the 18^th century by the Dutch. The dam is around 110 thousand square meters. For a long time the dam suffered a great deal of reformation and renewal.
Though the neighborhood where it is situated is mostly residential, In 1998, during one of the renovations of the lake, this beautiful tourism attraction received new sport and leisure equipment, community centers for kids, amphitheater, and restaurants, in addition to twelve sculptures of the “orixás” (African gods) signed by the artist Tati Moreno which is the main attraction on the lake.

Forte de Nossa senhora de Monte Serrat

Forte de Mont Serrat is considered the most beautiful military construction in Brazil. Constructed in 16th century, its construction started in 1583, on a strategic positioning area on the highest spot of the peninsula, facing the port. The fort is an irregular polygon of great circular towers whose objective was to defend the Northern part of the colonial city, in other words, its history brings back to us the historical moments of the heroic resistance of the Dutch in 1624 and 1638. There is a museum of arms in the fort. Since 1993, it has sheltered the Armaria Museum, which contains civil and military armament. There is also a staging that defended it from been captured in 1624. This part of the lower city where the fort is located is the best part of the city to capture the sunset. There are 2 great sea food restaurants with spectacular view at the opposite direction from the fort, where one can relax and have a beautiful view of Todos os Santos Bay entrance, from where you can see Salvador in one side and Itaparica Island on the other side.

Praia da Barra is a popular beach in Barra that's a convenient option if you're staying around this touristy crowded area. The beach is one where rock outcroppings make swimming dangerous and pollution is often a number one problem.

Porto da Barra beach
This beach is popular and known for its calmness and crystal clear waters, its acces is easy, coming down from the historical center, In addition, two excellent examples of Brazilian colonial architecture are located on this beautiful cove – Santa Maria Fort and São Diogo Fort, which is open for visitation by everybody for free

Ondina beach

This beach is relaxing and portrays reefs that form natural pools when the tide is low. The stretch of the beach that leads to Rio Vermelho is good for surfing because of its waves.

Amaralina beach
One can find a mouth watery “acarajé” and other typical dishes on the kiosks along the coast.  The strong waves on the beach are proper for surf and windsurf. But the beach in this part of town is polluted and not advisable for swimming.

Pituba beach
A stone throw for the Amaralina beach, the Pituba beach is a good place for surfers but not really for swimmers because of its yellow sand and rocks which gives the water a weird look. Though the locals frequent this beach al ot, it is not advisable for tourists because it has been known as a beach where mostly petty thieves hang out.

Apart from the porto da barra beach which is relatively clean, no beach around Salvador city is recommended for swimming. You need to go way out of the city to discover relaxing beaches with crystal clean  water like Praia Itapua, Praia Stella Maris, Praia de Flamengo etc.

Lagoa de Abaete  - one of my favorite spots in Bahia.Surrounding by sand dunes, dark waters and fine white sand, this spot is a must visit for any visitor to Salvador. Saturdays and Sundays are best time to visit, where life music fills the air around all the local bars and restaurants. There is also a park where children can relax and catch fun.

Ilha de Itaparica - "The largest of 56 islands in the Baia de Todos os Santos, Itaparica was originally settled because its ample supply of fresh mineral water was believed to have rejuvenating qualities. Its beaches are calm and shallow, thanks to the surrounding reefs, which are avidly sought by windsurfers, divers, and snorkelers. The main port of entry on the north of the island is the town of Bom Despacho, where the ferries from Salvador dock. The best beaches are near the villages of Vera Cruz, Mar Grande, and Conceicao, the latter almost entirely owned by Club Med Itaparica".

Morro de São Paulo
 

Morro de São Paulo, is located in the tip of the northeasten region of the Island of Tinharé in the south of Salvador.. 
It is internationally known for its beautiful beaches and relaxed embracing atmosphere.The town around the beaches is surrounded by hills and plants that give  an intense green vegetation constrasting the green emerald of the waters and white lilife giving sand, coupled with the fabulous landscapes that enchant visitors to ALWAYS pay a return visit.

Visit the Morro de Sao Paulo's website for full information. The site is written in Portuguese and translated to English,Italian and Spanish. www.morrodesaopaulo.com.br/

Chapada Diamantina is the spot that I like best in Bahia. It was founded in 1985 with the intention of protecting the area that had suffered from mining and cattle breeding to motivating and transforming it for purpose tourism and scientific research. 
 
The current ecosystem of the area is very different from when it was first explored. The huge trees have been cut down to facilitate mining, and thus gave way to the erosion of the soil. With the prohibition of mining in the area of the National Park,the fire,traditionally put at the pastures by the local farmers, is today the greatest enemy of the ecosystem. 
 
The shallow soil which is a consequence of the excavation, facilitates the drainage of the waters through the hillsides. Chapada greatly divides the waters between the basin of San Francisco and the rivers that flow into the Atlantic ocean. 
 
The vegetation is well diversified and the area also possesses many plants that are used for medicinal purposes. The park has beautiful Landscapes, natural swimming pools, rivers and a lot of rocks. It is very clean and armed with professional tour guides. 
 
One thing to watch out for are the terrible roads that lead to the park. During winter, it is advisable to wear hiking boots. Unlike other turisty spots in Salvador, the restaurants and bed and breakfast lodgings are comfortable and reasonably priced.

The only thing that one might not enjoy is the cold that blows from the mountains in the middle of the night and the very intelligent inescapable mosquitos that the park is known for. Not to scare anybody; but be prepared that you might accidentally run into snakes around the park. The beauty of the flowers, faunas, countless numbers of birds and beautiful waterfalls give a wonderful and welcoming feeling of nature to the park. If there is one place that I will like to visit repeatedly, till mother nature calls me home, that place will always be "The National Park of Chapada Diamantina" Salvador- Bahia, Brazil.

Trancoso

25 kilometers from Salvador.

A Jesuit community with original architecture from the 16th century that has been highly persevered. The infrastructure of this historical has also been persevered.

Trancoso has crystal clear beaches and exuberant vegetation. The beaches stand out as the most beautiful in the region which hiking, swimming is encouraged.

One additional feature of this place is the beautiful white sand, which covers the region not forgetting other additional infrastructures which make the place a great tourist destination.

Costa Do Sauípe

It is located at: 

25 kilometers of the Praia de Forte (Strong Beach) 

112 kilometers from Salvador the capital of Bahia. 

Costa do Sauipe features sceneries of exceptional beauty, where nature absolutely reigns supreme using its charm to embrace visitors; it is Brazil’s largest tourism & real estate destination which consists of the Costa do Sauipe hotel complex, the condominiums Casas de Sauipe Grande Laguna, Quintas de Sauipe Grande Laguna, varied lodging services and 5 star hotels. 

It is located in an Environmental Protected Area, that it is known for its exuberant natural beauty, especially in the coast of Bahia. 

It is an ideal place for those people that want to be in contact with  nature through ecological trips. 

It is also interesting to know: 

Praia da Barra Rio Sauípe 

Vila Nova da Praia.

CARAIVA

An ancient indigenous community situated in the south of Bahia.
 It has amazing landscape, you can only tour this village via canoe via the Caraiva river, though the community lack electricity and other crucial social amenities, but it is a beautiful place to back pack and chill from a few days from the hassles and bustles of the city life and sink into nature and its richness.

 Among the most important beaches around thes region, the following ones stand out: 
 
Praia do Resend: It is a small bay, with enormous coconut trees, white sands and big waves. It is an ideal place for surfing practice. 
 
Praia da Concha: The beach is known for it renowned tourist infrastructures of the city of Itacaré. It has calm waters and many coconut trees. It is an ideal place for sea bath and the accomplishment of family walks. 
 
Praia da Tiririca: It is a beach with huge waves, and it is ideal for the practice of  surfing. 
 
Praia do Costa: This beach is located 1 kilometer from the city of Itacaré. It has several coconut trees, whitesands and strong waves. 
 
Praia da Ribeira: It is a beach frequented mainly on weekends, and it is enclosed by the Atlantic forest and a stream. 
 
Praia Prainha: It is the postcard of Itacaré, it is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil . It is enclosed of green hills and an area of coconut trees. It is an ideal place for surfing. 
 
Praia do Siriaco: It is a hidden beach and little known among tourists. 
 
Praia de São José: It is a beach with big waves, it has many coconut trees. It is located inside the tourist Towns of São José, and it possesses good infrastructures for tourism. 
 
Praia da Engenhoca: It is a deserted beach during almost the whole year, and it is surrounded by coconut trees and the Atlantic forest; it has big waves and it is an ideal place for the practice of surfing. 
 
Havaizinho: It is a small beach known as Hawaii, and it is considered one of the best surf beaches. It has reefs, coconut trees and big waves. 
 
Praia do Jeribucacu: It is a deserted beach during almost the whole year, and it is a paradisiacal place that  is located on the outlet of Jeribucacu's river. 
 
Praias do Pontal e da Piracanga: These beaches are located in north of Rio Contas, and they are 50 kilometers deserted beaches with many coconut trees. Good place for surfing 
 
Praia de Itacarezinho: It is a place where the sea turtles lay their eggs. It has 3,5 kilometers of extension, many coconut trees, big waves, and it is an ideal place for the practice of surf. 
 
Serra Grande: It is in the south of Rio Tijuípe's , and it has virgin beaches that extend for several kilometers. It is an Environmental Protected Area, among the beaches it is advisable to visit the Beach of Sargi, that has lukewarm and transparent waters.